Saturday, April 30, 2005

Ambroisie

Some friends are almost too appreciative of a favor. We were recently invited to a dinner at Ambroisie, a Michelin Guide Red three star restaurant by these good friends. In French culinary terms, it doesn't get better than three stars.

The "Red Bible," as it is known, is a symbol of French culinary achievement and a guarantor of French culinary standards. It has long been a springboard to fame and riches for chefs, and the importance the chefs attach to Michelin stars has only magnified the guide's importance to restaurant-goers. In fact, a star can make or break a restaurant -- the loss of a star -- according to some -- will generally cut a restaurant's turnover by at least 25 percent. The addition of a star will guarantee prices to rise. Down the street we have a one-star Chinese restaurant. A meal there goes for 60 euro per person... for Chinese food!

With the highest three-star ranking you expect a wonderful, even magnificent meal and Ambroisie didn't disappoint. Located on the Place Vosges in the Marais, we walked in and were promptly greeted and shown to our table. Immediately, waiters were on hand to ask if we wanted an apperitif (bien sur!). Two of us ordered Kir royals and the other two champagne. After we were handed our menus, the waiter brought out some cheesy puff pastries. They were light yet flavorful. Then we listened to the waiters recommendations. When we ordered, if we choose his recommendation, he would say "merci pour votre confidence"/ thank you for your confidence.

If you look at reviews for Ambroisie, they all say that the chef, Bernard Pacaud, picks his menu by what is fresh for that season. Our menu was Printemps/Spring with lots of mushrooms and asparagus. I will tell you what I ordered.

To start I had the "feuillantine de queues de langostines au graines de sesame, sauce curry" -- beautiful big yet tender langostines (his recommendation) in between layers of a baked sesame (how do I say this??) crisp in a curry sauce. I was hesitant because I thought the curry would overpower the langoistines, but the sauce was mild and really complimented the fish.

After the first course, I ordered the "cote de veau double roti etuvee d'asperges et morilles" -- veal with tiny, flavorful morel mushrooms, not the lamb (as the waiter recommended, but the men ordered it and thought it was delicious). The veal came out perfectly cooked with most of the mushrooms and asparagus on a side plate. The flavors blended perfectly. To drink with the dinner we had a lovely 1979 Chateau Kirwan from Bordeaux.

The waiter recommended the chocolate tarte for dessert. The owner mentioned that it has been on the menu for 24 years. My husband wasn't going to take the recommendation and asked for the "soupe de fraise" or strawberry soup. The owner said , no the chocolate tarte is recommended monsieur. Backed into the corner, he ordered the chocolate tarte. A few minutes later the waiter brought out a "little surprise from the kitchen, because nothing is impossible at Ambroisie." It was the "soupe de fraises de jardin -cote de nuits- conversation aux amandes" and it was a little surprise for everyone. Delicious and light. Then for the real dessert... "tarte fine sablee au chocolate, glace a la vanille" -- a chocolate tarte with the most delicious, buttery and fine crust with a scoop of vanilla ice cream to balance the strong chocolate. I ate every bite and so did everyone else. Who says you can't have your cake and eat it too?

What a spectacular dining experience.

** Sorry no pictures of the food, my husband who barely tolerates my picture taking in normal restaurants would have surely died of embarrassment here.

-- said Auntie M in Paris
8:07 PM

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