Friday, December 31, 2004
Terminal Security
Yesterday when we reached the Northwest Terminal our family had been at the Detroit airport for 6 hours and we still had two hours before our flight. There were very few people at the airport and no one on the security line when our family of four went through. This young 20-something Beatle-haircut guy takes our passports and tickets before the x-ray machines. He looks everything over and when he looks like he's going to drop everything, I ask if I can have the passports he's done with. He tells me "NO," you're not getting these back. He revises and says, "I mean you're not getting the passports back now." After he reviews everything... about 5 minutes... he says "you've been selected by your airline for a full-security check." YEAH! Doesn't that sound like fun after twice checking in, already going through security at the United terminal and actually already boarding one plane. Of course, we take off our coats and shoes and anything metal. Fine. They are just doing their job. We have to wait for everything to go through the scanner before we can go through the metal detector. I get a bit ticked off when they laugh at our checked on items (specifically the "attack" air hockey game my son got for Christmas). They were having way too much fun going through our stuff. Once they are done and NO buzzers going off, I start to grab my stuff off the counter. "DO NOT TOUCH YOUR THINGS. WE ARE NOT THROUGH WITH YOU!" Each of us is told to sit down in chairs separated by a table. My husband and I are told we will be searched and patted down. I'm told I can ask for a private room if I'd like. I'm nearly losing it now. The woman is checking my bra and every other part of my body with the wand followed by her hand. FUN! Since there was metal in my pants and I told her, when asked, that I wasn't wearing a belt, she requested that I flip my pants over (where the button and zipper was located). I'm starting to feel a bit violated at this point, but I'm just angry. Then when she was through with me she said she was going to do the same thing to my daughter. I asked if she was crazy. She offered that I could speak to her supervisor. I should have taken her offer because I really believe it's just wrong to pat down a four-year old. She also wanded and patted my seven year old son. The whole family got the full arms out-legs spread-hand grope treatment. I was really, really upset. I'm not sure why. I'll have to think about it some more, but it just seemed wrong to pick a family out. No alarms went off when we went through the metal detector, why us? What age is too young for a patting down? What sign does this give young travelers? That travel is dangerous and you should be treated the same way a potential criminal is treated (because even police can't pat-down the average citizen, they need a cause, right?). What does this say about America? I just felt really violated last night, maybe I was just over tired, but does anyone agree with me?
-- said Auntie M in Paris
8:05 PM
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The Return Trip
I'm back! I'm back! I wanted to kiss the cold Paris ground when we arrived. I had a great time in the US, but as I said, it was a short trip and the children never adjusted to the jet lag and they both really wanted to come back to Paris. That was a first. Usually, they want to stay in the US. I don't think it has any greater meaning, for those family members reading, I think they were just tired through the whole trip. But I am thrilled to be back. The trip back was worse than the trip to the US when we had to wait at CDG airport for three hours in the plane while they tried to fix or replace a part of the plane (after that I finally did break down and buy my son a game boy -- I know I'm weak -- but there are times when they make sense). Well, we got to Detroit airport at 1:30pm for our United 3:30pm flight to Chicago followed by our 5:30pm flight to Paris. After checking in and then getting a seat on the flight, the plane didn't move... after 45 minutes of waiting, we were told that because of cloud coverage in Chicago there would be a THREE HOUR delay. Everyone was invited off the plane, if they'd like. Most people got off quickly to stand on the customer service line to determine what to do. I rushed off and the customer service woman called Northwest and found four seats on their 9:30pm flight. The woman told me to go to United baggage claim and get our four pieces of luggage. They should be off the plane in 15 minutes. Well, about 90 minutes later we faced the fact that only 3 pieces of luggage made the trip -- a new record for us. Usually we lose a piece of luggage after it or we leave the airport. I mean, that's common courtesy, right? The baggage claim woman said the fourth piece of luggage supposedly did make a break for it in Detroit (the computer said all four pieces were taken off the Chicago flight) but that she believed that it was put back on the flight, which by this time had taken off (WHAT??). BTW, our Paris flight, in the supposedly fogged-in Chicago, took off on time. Kind of makes you in awe of how things work out sometimes, huh? So we got our three pieces of luggage, found the airport shuttle and went to the Northwest terminal (a 8 minute drive -- is Detroit airport really that big?) to start all over again with one less piece of luggage. We still haven't heard any word about our missing piece of luggage...I really should have kissed that Paris ground, now that I think about it.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
4:35 PM
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Wednesday, December 29, 2004
The Return
One of my loyal readers was offended yesterday at what I had written -- my mother-in-law, my belle mere. I'm not going to go into detail about what I meant or what concerned her, but let me just say that I think she is great and enjoy the time I spend with her and meant no offense. Things I find amusing are often just because they are different from the way I do things. That doesn't mean I'm right. Personally, over the years, especially my time in France, I've come to appreciate differences for what they are.. learning experiences. Not that I tell my m-i-l, but occasionally after speaking to her, I actually take her advice. We leave tomorrow for Paris. The weather is supposed to be good, so hopefully we will make it home without too much delay. Maybe because this trip was shorter than most to the US, I don't feel like we ever really relaxed and got rid of our jet lag. As a result the kids have been more tired and cranky. It's a shame because we don't see the relatives as often as we'd like and they probably think the kids always act this way. As we've made the rounds we've found a lot of people wanting to visit us. Do they believe that this might actually be our last few months in Paris? It certainly isn't because of the strong dollar. Of course, my husband and I actually enjoy having visitors, so it's a question of fitting everyone in when they'd like to come.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
5:22 PM
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Tuesday, December 28, 2004
Low Tech
Yes, I am alive and well and living temporarily in Michigan. I’m at the in-laws and they don’t take well to new technology. I mean they still have a rotary phone. They were reminiscing how they didn’t own a color TV until 1980. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, I wrote that correctly, 1980. Usually, if they have new technology it is because their two sons want it when they visit… so now they do own a VCR and last year, they bought a DVD. They own two DVDs .. one of which is Thomas the Train. Does that explain why missives from MI will be few and far between? I think so. There is snow here. It’s very cold so the snow we got a few days ago has stayed. It looks beautiful, but it is frigid cold. The kids are determined to play outside despite the cold. Yesterday my daughter was bugging the family to let her ride her bike. I told her no because there is a ton of ice on the ground. However, with so many family members around, she was bound to get her way. When I returned from a shopping trip yesterday I see my daughter riding her bike on the icy driveway. She was actually pushing her bike along the ice since she couldn’t ride it. Did I ever mention how stubborn my daughter is?? Today I got out of the house by grocery shopping. I wanted to pick up some things to bring back to Paris. I have no idea where it will fit – we have absolutely no room. Our families seemed to have deemed four years of small gifts enough…this year the kids got the largest gifts, like a doll house and an air hockey game. Anyway, while out of the house I went to get a Starbucks coffee. I walk into the shop and check out the menu and order a grande latte. Seeing a French word and not thinking, I ask for a “graah-nd laatt-a.” The woman looks at me blankly and asks me to repeat it. I say the same thing. She says “oh – a graahn-day laat-ay.” When I was telling this story, my husband said well “grande latte” is an Italian term. Is that true? I was trying to remember what they call it in France. Who can set me straight on this? I couldn’t help but feeling that whenever I speak I am corrected – even when in the US!
-- said Auntie M in Paris
3:34 PM
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Friday, December 24, 2004
The Family
Today is another day to hang out with the family. It's funny, I was thinking that in Paris I am so busy and yet I find time to write. Here I just do things... empty the dishwasher, make a cake, play with the kids outside, go to the grocery store and I can't find time to write. Yesterday we celebrated my father's birthday. It's not for a couple of days, but I leave tomorrow, on Christmas, to spend the day at the airport... to fly to the in-laws. So last night we had a party to celebrate my father's 75th birthday. Remember when 75 seemed so old? He seems so young in many ways. Yesterday my niece had her last day of school for the year. It was pajama day at school, so she went to school in her pajamas. It's strange to see her get on the bus with her pajamas on. Her school also hosts wacky hair day. I hope my sister sends a picture of that because my niece has a lot of hair to play with! Since I doubt I'll be near a computer tomorrow, I'd like to wish everyone a Happy Holiday. Thanks for reading my blog. It's nice to know you're out there.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
4:15 PM
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Wednesday, December 22, 2004
The Snowman
Just hung around the house today. The weather is getting warmer and the snow was very mushy today so we took the opportunity to make a snow man -- before it all melts tomorrow in the 50 degree weather. I felt like a real mom doing this with the kids. In truth, I'm not sure I've made a snow man -- at least not in the last 25 years. It was fun! Running around having a snow ball fight with my son afterward I remembered how wonderful the US can be... running, screaming, being crazy. In Paris I sometimes feel I have to act properly all the time.. and the kids too. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
11:15 PM
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Tuesday, December 21, 2004
The Drive
Today I drove to the next town to do some shopping. A Target opened up there and I had to check it out. It's a fun store and there are always some good sales going on. Today was no different. There is so much choice. It's like a candy store to someone like me who is living in a city where choice is very limited and if you ever see something you like you better buy it right then because chances are very high that the store will run out and not reorder what you liked. Anyway, I drove in the US today for the first time in a long time. I am so used to diving in France, which I always liken to the Wild West -- not many rules, but lots of common sense. Here in the US it is all about the rules. When I first moved to France we bought a car. About a year after that, the speedometer broke. Every time I drove I had no idea how fast I was driving. The speedometer was broken for 8 months and it was no big deal. There are rarely ever any speed limit signs in Paris. I never drive there thinking a police officer might pull me over because I'm going too fast. It just doesn't happen. What a difference here! I was driving in a 40 mile an hour lane with my nephew today and he said "you can go 44 mph here without the police pulling you over." You can drive 43 mph, but if you drive 46 mph you risk getting an expensive reckless driving fine. I miss the freedom of common sense driving in Paris. Can you imagine driving in the US for 8 months with a broken speedometer? I can't imagine that either.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
10:20 PM
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Monday, December 20, 2004
Let it Snow
Well, after one full day in the US, it snowed. I woke up this morning (4:15am, thank you) and found the ground covered in snow. I guess after I went to sleep last night (8pm, thank you) it rained. So although we only had three inches of snow accumulation, my niece had a snow day today. Her first of the school year. Apparently, there was a nice thick layer of ice under the snow. As a result, today we continue with the Christmas activities. Yesterday we made about 18 dozen cookies. It took about 5 hours to bake all those cookies, but what fun for the whole family. Today we decorated the tree, went sledding and have plans to find a store that sells gingerbread houses (going out after the ice melts a bit). It's nice to drive around the area to see the Christmas lights and decorations -- you just don't see lighted reindeer eating grass on the streets of Paris. Go figure. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
4:10 PM
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Sunday, December 19, 2004
My Flight
My husband has given me clearance. Does he like you more now? After three months does he trust you? I'm just not sure.. but I'm am now able to tell you that I have left the country. That's right, I'm in the US. We flew here yesterday. In Paris we waited three hours on the ground, in the plane, because of some problem with the left generator. I think they moved another little used generator in the plane to replace the broken generator on the left. All the women were a bit flipped out about the broken generator information, but the men seemed to think it was no big deal. We did arrive in the US safely so I guess there really was nothing to worry about. Either that or we were lucky. There were tremendous winds yesterday and the actual flight took 8.5 hours to DC, as a result we were on the plane for 11.5 hours. We had to get a new, later connection from DC after that (we missed our original connection), which ended up being 45 minutes late (they needed to get more gas because of the severe winds). We were supposed to end our trip at 7pm EST, but we actually arrived at 12:15am the next day. What a day of travel with the two kids! Thankfully, they each had or made friends on the long flight. On the plane, interestingly enough, I read an article how much CO2 we generate when we take an overseas flight. There are a couple of websites which have CO2 calculators to determine how much you generate. At future forests, I found out that yesterday my flight covered 6196 Km and produced 0.68 tons of CO2. The webiste makes suggestions of how I can pay back my debt to the world. For yesterday's consumption, they recommend that I either dedicate 1 tree to make your flight Carbon Neutral or supply 1 energy saving lightbulb to a small community in the developing world. Sounds like a pretty good idea.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
10:16 PM
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Saturday, December 18, 2004
Champagne Balls
While doing some last minute holiday shopping (and I really don't want to shop anymore... all the stores are so crowded), I spent a little time at La Maison du Chocolat. I've mentioned before, that I love that store. We spent so much time there today (during lunch) not only did my daughter and I get a sample of chocolate (milk and dark respectively, thank you for asking) but she got a second sample before we left the store. While shopping, I came upon these little wonders...  They are wooden Christmas ornaments with champagne balls, "dark ganache combined with brut champagne and cocoa beans from the Equator and Columbia" and "milk ganache combined with rose champagne and cocoa beans from Trinidad and Equator." The champagne comes from the Taillevent caves. The champagne balls are surrounded by little dark chocolate balls that you can eat or use to make hot chocolate. Wouldn't these ornaments look better hanging on my Christmas tree??
-- said Auntie M in Paris
5:38 PM
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Friday, December 17, 2004
The Fables of La Fontaine
My son and I went to les Fables de Fontaine at the Opera tonight at Bastille. His friend's mother got us tickets to the show tonight, which was an hour long. Three of La Fontaine's stories were performed: the grasshopper and the ant, the wolf and the sheep, and the lion and the rat. They were all very modern interpretations of the fables, each a two person show. The first fable had the man singing the story and the ant/woman dancing and cleaning words written on the floor. This did not hold my son's attention very well. The second show was pretty much a ballet -- no singing, no speaking, just music and dancing. My son was downright figgity by this point. The last show had some speaking parts and ended with the lion and the rat singing "we're off to see the wizard, the wonderful wizard of oz." My son loved it! He started singing too. At least I have a sense of what he likes... and what he doesn't!
-- said Auntie M in Paris
11:19 PM
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The Parking Spot
I found a nice parking spot on the street outside of my building the other day. It's an end spot so I just pulled into the space. Imagine my surprise when I passed by the car to find this.....  Now grant it, I can just reverse the car and pull out backward, but is it reallly necessary to park on top of my car? The guy has about a foot in front of his car, so it wasn't like he was just squeezing into the spot. I don't know why this bothers me so, I guess because it was unnecessarily aggresive.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
5:56 PM
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The Ambassador's Residence
Yesterday afternoon the Women of the American Church held their annual Christmas Tea at the residence of the American Ambassador, Mr. Howard Leach. What has always intrigued me about the current Ambassador and his wife is their choice of art. The US State Department has a program called Art in Embassies. Through AIEP, Mr and Mrs Leach have picked numerous art pieces from American artists... here is their list. They definitely like modern art, but the pieces by Duane Hansen are particularly eerie. One biography of Mr Hansen, by Askart, described his work as "ultra-realistic sculpture depicting ordinary people going about their daily-life activities such as mowing lawns, sitting at tables, playing games, etc. His concepts relate to Pop Art in that mundane objects/people are treated as though they have worth and artistic merit and to Photo-Realism because his figures are deceptively real in appearance." I call it spooky. You really believe the sculptures are real, but you be the judge. I took pictures of Mr. Hansen's two works at the Ambassador's Residence.   I've seen people try to pet the dog.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
10:42 AM
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Thursday, December 16, 2004
The Cirque Gruss
The French love the circus. At winter time going to the circus is a popular activity for the family, and there are many to choose from in Paris. In fact you can find a circus all through the year. Today my daughter's class took a field trip to the Cirque Gruss in the Bois de Vincennes. We went to the circus a few weeks ago that was, shall we say, very clown heavy. This was a completely different experience. This show was primarily about the animals: Lions and their tamers, Elephants relieving themselves (I think the kids liked this best... so much laughing and screaming), Camels playing with a yak and zebra, Dogs of all types jumping through hoops, and Horses running around the circle. It was one animal show after another. But the show bothered me. I think each of these animals had a trainer with a whip. Did you ever think you were part of something that you just didn't know even existed anymore? With all the concern about animal cruelty in the US, I guess I didn't realize shows like these still exist and I was uncomfortable. My daughter jumped every time the whip was used. It makes an awful loud sound. On top of this, we are signed up for yet another circus in a few weeks. But the animals were magnificent.. here is a picture of an elephant. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
9:34 PM
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Wednesday, December 15, 2004
The Kiosk Man
Since we moved to France over 4 years ago I've watched my children grow from being babies to being children with minds of their own. Growing up in a different culture was difficult for my son because he was three when we moved here and still had fond memories of life in the US. The first year he spoke no French and understood very little. The second year he understood everything but still spoke very little French. The third year was a charm... he spoke and understood French. My daughter grew up in France and speaks fluent French at 4 years old. I tell you this because as a parent I am always amazed, quite honestly shocked, when my young children can do things I can not or have not been able to. Speaking French has been difficult for me. My tongue gets twisted. My pronunciation is horrendous. Yesterday I realized that, unlike me, my son has made a lot of French friends while in Paris. Of course, he has his classmates, but he has made other friends too. One particularly good example is the "friendship" he has with the man who runs the kiosk between our apartment and the school. It started with the yu-gi-oh phase when the kiosk man (KM) had the best prices for the cards. Then my son and his two best friends would spend their allowance on packages of Pokeman tabs -- 50 cents each! He would stop by the kiosk everyday and my son or one of his friends would buy the Pokeman tabs. The lucky boy, who bought a few packages that day, would sit on the ground with the other two boys and they would all share in the delight of opening up the packages and announcing which tabs were special or rare. They were all happy for each other and the lucky boy would give the other two boys the double tabs. The kiosk man really got to know all the boys, but I think he had a special place in his heart for my son. I knew they were "friends" when my son started a line of credit. The KM was busy with another customer and my son wanted Pokeman tabs that particular day. The KM told him to grab a package of tabs and just pay him tomorrow. When my son was getting ready for school the next day, he made sure he had 50 cents in his pocket. When we reached the kiosk on the way to school, my son gave KM the money. After that, my son made a point of stopping by the kiosk to say "bonjour" to the man every day. Since he talks to the man everyday, he knows when a new shipment of cards comes into the kiosk. He also sometimes gets a free sample of the merchandise. One day when my son bought something and my daughter cried that she didn't get anything, KM gave her a Pokeman package too, for free. My point? My son is a confident, outgoing, friendly child who has represented the family well. If all of us expats are ambassadors for our home country, then my son has represented the USA well. I've given you one example, but there are many more. My son has made a number of friends here in Paris, young and old, French and International and I'm really proud of him. A picture of KM, my son and one of his friends buying yu-gi-oh cards this week. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
9:50 PM
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The Collection
A few weeks ago I wrote about the pompiers/fireman, mail carriers and garbage collectors that come to the apartment during the holidays to collect their holiday bonuses from people. Someone gave me a website that lists the appropriate amount to give to each group of people on your list (or rather at your door). Well, imagine my surprise when an official paper from the Mairie/Town Hall posted in my building tells me I don't have to give anything to these people!  The note says (more or less): Notice of Information: Collections in the Buildings
The collection of New Year's Gifts or the selling of calendars by the people who work for Town Hall is forbidden. The collections that are claimed by these people, real or fake, must be politely dismissed and Parisiens must not respond to their demands. For those of you with a better understanding of French, forgive me any mistakes.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
3:03 PM
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Tuesday, December 14, 2004
Taller Than The Eiffel Tower
The world's highest road bridge, located in Millau, France, will be open to traffic on Thursday. Every summer for the past couple of years my family has taken a road trip around France (opposite direction of the Tour de France) to visit my sister and friends. Even though we get to travel to many countries while here in Europe, I think our best trips have been driving around France. It's a beautiful country with so much history in every small town. This past summer we headed toward Avignon, Orange, Chateauneuf du Pape, and Le Pont du Gard finally reaching the Montpellier area where my sister lives. Here is a family photo at Le Pont du Gard. I think that day will be one of our best memories of France. There is a life guard on duty in the summer and you can go swimming or the kids can play on the beach.  After staying a few days with my sister, we drove through the Massif Central. On the way home, we passed by the Millau bridge -- which was still being constructed. We were far away when we first saw the bridge. It's absolutely massive (in the massif central, how apropos). Of course, big isn't good enough... it's also a work of art. The architect, Mr Foster said the bridge was designed to have the "delicacy of a butterfly". For 4,60 euro you can take a ride across the bridge. Bring your camera.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
6:45 PM
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Monday, December 13, 2004
Santa Climbs In
Apparently Santa is getting into the fitness rage. No longer content to ride his sleigh to the roof and climb down the chimney (or maybe because most chimneys aren't open in Paris?), he has taken up the popular sport of climbing. Presumably, he leaves his sled on the ground and climbs up to each apartment carrying his heavy bag. I guess we all have to make adjustments and adaptations for life in the big city of Paris. Is Santa climbing anywhere else this year? 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
2:56 PM
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Sunday, December 12, 2004
La Belle au Bois II
My sister was in town this weekend to shop and see the Christmas decorations around Paris. Her family has an apartment in the 6th and we decided to meet in that neighborhood this morning. We all met at the Luxembourg Gardens to see the guignol/puppet show.  After seeing Sleeping Beauty yesterday at the National Opera of Paris, it was quite a difference to go to the puppet show today. Unfortunately, sleeping beauty wasn't playing today, but her picture was displayed for a future performance.  Actually, I'm not sure what we saw (Puss in boots I think), but I can tell you that the kids laughed a lot, talked back to the puppets and generally had a fun time. Who cares if the story was not that great.. puppets skipping, hitting and tricking other puppets.. does it get better for the kids? It was really cold today and after the show the kids played at the Luxembourg Gardens playground, which is large and has really wonderful (albeit with a hint of danger) playground equipment -- two scarce commodities in Paris. We didn't stay out for long and walked over to the buvette for a warm lunch. Buvette means little drink stand so I found it funny to have a three course lunch with beef bourgignon topped off by a tarte tatin for dessert. To go with the beef....the house wine of course ... which was actually Les Marionnettes du Luxembourg.  (I can just imagine the review of this wine. "A tricky little red which skipped across my palate and clobbered me in the head.") Not bad for a snack shack. I love this country!
-- said Auntie M in Paris
7:57 PM
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Saturday, December 11, 2004
La Belle au Bois
Well, my son's friend's mother has invited us to a few shows at the Opera over the next few months. Only one is a full fledged Ballet at the Opera de Paris, La Belle au Bois Dormant/Sleeping Beauty. It's a three hour and thirty minute show with two intermissions. Being the deliquent mother that I sometimes am.... I forgot to tell my son the story of Sleeping Beauty before we got to the show. That could have been very helpful to his short attention span. However, I couldn't remember what the story was about so I was explaining the story as the show progressed. He couldn't understand how I was figuring it out since no one spoke. "Why isn't anyone talking??" he asked. Yeah, next time I'll read him the story AND explain how a ballet works. I tell you I'm learning this mother stuff one day at a time. Today was a special show for underprivileged children so the place was filled with kids. My friend brought nine kids herself. I sat next to a little girl who came with her mother. Before the show started, the mother was fussing with the girl, around 10 years old, and she said to her mom "c'est pas ma premiere fois a l'opera maman!/ it's not my first time at the opera mom!" Needless to say, she wasn't one of the underprivileged children. Because today was a charity show, there were some famous French people there. Girls were running around with pen and paper for autographs. It was all lost on me.... the French minister of culture, some choreography, the president of some company... then again people say they've seen Gerard Depardieu in my neighborhood and even though I've seen many of his movies, I know I would never recognize him if I bumped into him on the street. The show was wonderful. The dancing magical. The costumes just magnificent. The set was gorgeous. In part three, after the second intermission, when the curtain was raised the audience just gasped at the beauty of the outfits and stage. If you like ballet, this is a must. After 210 minutes the ballet ended and my son jumped up, clapped as hard as he could and screamed "bravo" followed by "woo-woo." People turned to look at him, impressed by how much he liked the performance. Too bad he was cheering that the show was finally over and he could talk again. And he speaks french, so of course he wasn't yelling "encore (again)!" By the way, my son and I were the only ones "woo-woo"ing. Sometimes we just let loose with our American selves.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
10:12 PM
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Birthday Cakes
A few of us mothers braved the cold yesterday after school got out and brought the kids to the park for 30 minutes. We were chatting about nothing when a French mother asks me how her son got a space shuttle button (he's in class with my son). I told her my friend's husband is an astronaut and gave me the pictures and pins to give to the teacher to hand out in English class. I took this opportunity (since this is the same mother who explained I shouldn't get involved in the school realm) to say, see, this is why it can be good for parents to get involved....I brought something to the school that the teachers couldn't and it was a learning experience. She nodded her head but was not convinced, I could tell (although her son loves the pin). This apparently reminded her of the trouble with Americans. She complained that the school would not allow home baked goods in the classroom. In other words, she couldn't bake a birthday cake for her child's class. She said she understood the school made this rule as a result of the Americans. What??? She wasn't sure if the Americans just went overboard on home baked goods in the classroom or if they were afraid that the Americans would start suing if there was ever a problem. What??? She said, she thought there was an incident (perhaps at another school?) -- too many baked goods and some problem with one of the baked good and this caused our school to be scared at the prospect of litigation. The French definitely believe (and it's true) that America is a litigious society, but this was a new one to me... home baked birthday cakes?
-- said Auntie M in Paris
11:23 AM
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Friday, December 10, 2004
Versailles
I drove out to Chateau de Versailles for my last walking tour of the year. It was a cold day, so I was glad we didn't stay out for too long. While outside, I took this picture of a clock on top of the main entrance.  We took a tour of the state apartments of the King and Queen and the Hall of Mirrors. Versailles started out as a hunting lodge for Louis XIII and was embellished and enlarged by his son, Louis XIV, the sun king. Versailles, as we know it today, was thanks to 20 years of construction and decorating, which was ordered by the Sun King. The King's state apartments were designed dedicated to the planets gravitating around Apollo, the god symbolizing the sun in mythology. Here is a picture looking out from the King's suite of rooms. In this picture, you can see one small side of Versailles, one fountain, and below the little train that you can take around the property grounds.  Between the King's and Queen's suite of chambers is the Hall of Mirrors. It is a magnificent room, but you'll have to use your imagination to appreciate its full grandeur, at least for the next few years. It is currently being renovated, from 2004 until 2007, and now you can only see half of the room (which hasn't been cleaned yet). I can only imagine how magnificent the room will be in 2007. This sign tells you what you're missing.  We also walked through the Queens rooms, which had a lot of paintings of Marie Antoinette, wife of King Louis XVI. One room in particular stood out... the room right outside the Queen's family chambers where the confrontation about the necklace occurred and later where royal guards were murdered on a night of October 1789 when the revolutionists insisted that the royal family move from Versailles to the Tuileries. According to my tour guide, during Louis XIV, there were 2,000 people from the Royal Court living in Versailles and 3,000 servants who took care of the aristocrats. There were also 36,000 working there... decorating, gardening, creating sculptures. It was a city in itself. In part because so many people in town were a part of the creation of this beautiful edifice, the townsfolk made sure that Versailles survived the French revolution, unlike many other Royal chateaux.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
6:21 PM
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Thursday, December 09, 2004
TWM Exhibit
My husband and I decided to have a rendez-vous this afternoon. We finally took the time to see the Turner Whistler Monet exhibit. The TWM exhibit is located at the Grand Palais, a beautiful building (aren't they all?) in Paris. The exhibition has 100 wonderful impressionist paintings. The reason these artists are together in this exhibit? Monet and Whistler admired Turner's work, especially his landscapes. Their mutual interest in Turner led them to become close friends and influence each other's work. The exhibition focuses on views of the River Thames, the Seine and the city of Venice. At 2pm this afternoon, my husband and I waited for 30 minutes in line. The museum was very full. I can only imagine how busy it is on the weekend. After Paris, the TWM exhibition heads to the Tate museum in London. Before I entered the Grand Palais, I took a picture of a sculpture on top of the building. There's art everywhere in Paris. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
7:45 PM
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BHV
Had some free time this morning. I decided to head over to BHV (Le Bazar de l'Hotel de Ville) for some Christmas shopping. My daughter mentioned last night that usually there are gifts under the Christmas tree and I hadn't bought the kids anything. For the most part, our shopping will be done in the US. The exchange rate, as you all know, is wonderful for those of us earning money in euro and shopping in the US. Even my French teacher, who took a business trip with her husband to Texas last week, was telling tale after tale of what she bought and for how cheap in the US. Anyway, BHV has EVERYTHING. I really felt dizzy just walking around. You name it they got it... Paris street signs, vacuum cleaners, art supplies, clothes, luggage, jewelry, furniture... it's all there. I headed straight to the toys and found a couple of uniquely French things for the kids, e.g., a stuffed Babar (my daughter loves the show). After shopping I walked outside to the Hotel de Ville. They have a skating rink open until March 13. I took a picture of the rink. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
4:02 PM
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Wednesday, December 08, 2004
Getting Gas
After my son's golf lesson I drove to the gas station to "fill up." When I drive to the pump, I see that the cheaper gas is temporarily not working. I was unhappy because my husband and I always use the cheapest gas for the car. So I was thinking about this as I was also thinking "what am I going to ask for in French?" The station near my house is full service and normally I just ask to fill the car with gas, but I was ticked off that the cheap gas wasn't available. In my thoughtful silence the gas attendent asks "fill her up?" I said "No", because if I couldn't have the cheap gas I wasn't filling up. Once again, thinking either that I'm an idiot or just incapable of communicating, the guy starts guessing what I might want..."dix litres?, vingt litres?, trente litres?" No I would like quarante litres/forty liters! He's relived that I am capable of telling him something informative so he can do his job. As I'm standing there, I start doing the math. The cheap gas is 95 cent/liter and the plus gas is 98 cent/litre. I've just done this whole song and dance for 1,20 euro. I should have just nodded when he asked to fill up?!  As an aside for all my American readers, that 40 liters or 10.5 gallons cost me about $52 (at current exchange rates of course.)
-- said Auntie M in Paris
8:05 PM
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Colette
While I was on my walk yesterday I came upon the building where Colette spent her last days. Colette was one of France's leading twentieth-century novelists who wrote more than 50 books and short stories. Colette was also the name of my mother, so it has special meaning for my sisters and me. The three of us each have one daughter. Although we don't agree on much, we all thought it was a good idea to have our daughter's middle names be Colette, in part (I think) because our mother died before any of the girls were born. I took this picture yesterday while in the Jardin du Palais Royal, where Colette lived until she died. The website I've linked to has a picture of Colette waving from the window, right above where this plaque now rests.  Right near by the Palais Royal is the Place Colette. There is a funky metro stop there. I took a picture, but I liked one my France sister took last year better. So here is her picture. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
3:45 PM
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Tuesday, December 07, 2004
French Class Gathering
My French teacher had her end of year gathering at her house this morning. There were nearly 20 of us there. She has a beautiful apartment near the Gare de Lyon, on the 5th floor with wonderful views of the Seine. She is always a generous host. As soon as we enter the apartment Champagne was served (bien sur!) and a tray of goodies. Here is a picture.  After the brunch, my friend and I headed to the Viaduc des Arts, a pretty viaduct with small arts and craft kind of shops. We stopped at Le Bonheur des Dames and bought my French knitting sister some supplies. Then we took the bus to another interesting walking area, the Galerie Vivienne covered passage for a little shopping and ended up at the Jardin du Palais Royal. I don't think I've ever walked around that area. Very nice! Here is a picture from my walk. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
6:00 PM
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French Tree Stand
Last night the husband and kids went out into the dark and cold to find our Christmas Tree. My husband carried the wonderfully shaped tree home and place it near the window. The whole process took about 15 minutes, if that. In part, it was this easy because the flower, in this case tree store was only a block or so away. Another reason it was so simple is because you buy the Christmas tree with a block of wood for the stand. I will never forget the amount of time my family spent a. finding the tree stand, b. putting the tree into the stand, c. tightening the stand and then re-tightening it what felt like a million times until the tree was straight, and finally d. watering the tree every few days. Here the tree gets hammered into the wooden mount and 5 minutes later it is standing perfectly straight in my living room. It's a beautiful thing.  Here is a picture of the stand. The tree is bare right now. We didn't have time to decorate last night, so the kids (and parents) are looking forward to coming home tonight and taking out their favorite ornaments to place on the tree. Should be fun.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
3:46 PM
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Monday, December 06, 2004
Tea and Chocolate
Today I realized there are 10 more school days (days without the kids) to go Christmas shopping. After next Friday, there is another 2 1/2 week break from school for the holidays. So out I went. While other friends go to fancy stores and buy beautiful Longchamp bags and designer kids clothes ( petite bateau, jacadi) to bring back to family (you know who you are) I bring back food. I really got quite a bit of shopping done today at two stores: Mariage Frères and La Maison du Chocolat. Often they are located near each other, so it makes my shopping very convenient. I particularly like going to La Maison du Chocolat because 9/10 times they offer a gouter/taste of something. Today it was a wonderful truffle. Shopping is tough!  Mariage Frères: So many Tea, so little time! 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
8:10 PM
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Sunday, December 05, 2004
Give the World a Coke
A few weeks ago I worked at a used book sale for the American Church in Paris. A college boy helped me that day and I really couldn't have survived the day-long sale without him. He was helpful and fun. So I told him I'd make him and a group of his friends dinner. Yesterday he and seven of his friends came over for some lasagna and blueberry crisp among other things. Over a shared meal with the kids, who ranged from 18 - 23, we listened to them introduce themselves -- where they are from, what they are doing. Most were from the US.. California, Michigan, South Carolina, Maryland, Indiana, New York... one was from Canada and the last one from Germany. Some were here to goof off for a few months before going to college, some to study for a year, two came for a Le Cordon Bleu diploma and one to study at Sciences Po. It was a really interesting mix of people. What was clear is that they all expected their time in France to be life changing and I think it will be for all of them. I never really understood what it was like to be different. I grew up an Italian Catholic in an Italian Catholic community. I went to college in NY with people from New York. I graduated with Political Science degrees and moved to Washington DC with all the other people who majored in public policy and political science. It wasn't until I moved to France that I appreciated what if felt like to be different. Really different. I often think back to some of my experiences in the US....Now I have a better understanding of what if feels like to be the Mexican immigrant in the US who has their child translate for them (my son hates when I ask him to translate what an adult has said to me). I appreciate how frustrating it must have been for that Chinese waiter to say things to me over and over in English until I understood what food he was describing. It's difficult to empathize until you are in someone else's shoes. Now I'm wearing those shoes and these college kids are too. There's a lot of misunderstanding in the world and I hope that these kids, with their year abroad experience, will make it a nicer, more understanding place to live. I was thinking of that song " I'd Like To Teach The World To Sing" while I wrote this. Sadly, the reason we probably all know this song is because it was a coke commercial in 1971. Oh well, I grew up an American consumer after all...
-- said Auntie M in Paris
8:41 PM
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Saturday, December 04, 2004
Red Riding Hood
Although my husband is not here to verify this, I believe my son has done something today that no one else in the family has ever done.... my son attended his first performance at the Opera. The mother of my son's friend is affiliated with the Opéra National de Paris and she took him to LE PETIT CHAPERON ROUGE/Little Red Riding Hood today. It is described as a musical theater show. When asked if he liked the 50 minute show, my son replied "yes, we got to switch seats." I guess as soon as the lights went out they changed seats. He also said he didn't understand the story. More than that I do not know. Has anyone else ever noticed how hard it is to get detailed information from your husband? It starts young.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
10:22 PM
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My Holiday Cookies
I made some cookies last night and finished them up today. The are a family favorite (to my sisters: sorry I can't share them with you). They require a two step preparation, but are well worth the time. They are called "rainbow," "three-layer," and/or "Italian wedding" cookies and they are delicious. The main ingredient is almond paste. If you like marzipan and chocolate, you'll love these cookies. I have yet to learn how to take good close up pictures, but here is my attempt to show you my yummy cookies. I used 64% chocolate by 1848, the things we must do when chocolate chips are not available. My son informed me today that he no longer will eat milk chocolate.. only dark chocolate. He takes after his Grammy. 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
6:32 PM
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Snow Heart
I live very close to about three lycées/high schools. I think the kids had some big contrôlés/exams this week. I heard a lot of screaming after school on Thursday. But on Friday afternoon the kids went crazy. They were running around with cans of shaving cream and sometimes eggs (just like older kids on Halloween in the US). You could not walk down the street in my neighborhood without seeing kids covered in shaving cream. The streets were painted with the stuff (it's really slippery!). I couldn't resist taking a picture of a jeep blanketed with cream. It looked pretty, as though the vehicle was covered in snow. Don't you think? 
-- said Auntie M in Paris
1:30 PM
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Friday, December 03, 2004
Skating in the Wind
My blogging friend Jason wrote today that the Eiffel Tower is going to have an ice skating rink! According to the Parisvoice, for the holidays the Eiffel Tower will be white and silver frosted with the gold lights sparkling every hour on the hour (you'll see them too because there are only a few hours of light during the day!). Additionally, the Tower will host a 200 meter skating rink on the first floor, 57 meters above the Champ de Mars (wind and all), until January 23. Does that sound like fun?!
-- said Auntie M in Paris
11:39 PM
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Bag it!
One of the things I used to not fully appreciate in the US was having a cashier bag my groceries. Now I consider it a luxury. When I'm back in the States and a person bags my groceries I say "thank you" way too much. I feel like giving the cashier a tip. Tonight I stopped at the grocery store on the way home after school. It took the cashier forever to help the people in front of me. I think one of them had a problem with the change she gave. As a result, I think I might have done some eye rolling or huffing noises. So by the time she finally got to me she started into fast gear and I had to quickly try to stuff the bags with my groceries while fumbling for my debit card. She was already helping two people after me by the time I was done filling my bags. It kind of stresses me out because then I'm in way of other people. I'm reminded of an email a friend who had moved back to the US (from Paris) had sent to a friend in Paris about to leave for the US... The American atmosphere is at once compelling and repulsive. You will be running between soccer games, play rehearsals and choir concerts. You will wonder where your family time is and long for two weeks of vacation every six weeks. Your living room will be besieged by garbage coming from the television. Your car will fit with ease between the white lines in parking lots; you will have help bagging your groceries. You will be able to negotiate bureaucratic night-mares and lose your temper at will in your own language. Your children will miss their friends in Paris and depending on their school here in the States find it easy beyond belief. There is green grass the children can actually play on but the parents ruin their play by yelling expletives at the referees and other parents. I just thought I'd share it with you. I thought it was a really interesting perspective on things.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
9:35 PM
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Thursday, December 02, 2004
The New Look
I'm trying a new look to my blog. I really like it. It was created by Mai. She held my hand through the whole process, and I need a lot of hand holding. Thanks for all the time you've spent on this Mai! There are some kinks that need to be worked out. I'll try working on them tomorrow. But let me know if you have a problem with something or think something should be improved. Thanks also to Vivi for giving me the idea. She's way ahead of the curve.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
11:18 PM
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A French Day
I've already explained I haven't been sleeping well. It's been raining since I left to pick the kids up at school. And boy is it dark out and it's only 5pm. I'm not in a great mood. I've mentioned before that there is this concrete wall between school and the parents. Every year for the past four years I've done my American thing of bringing projects for the kids into school. I always ask the teachers first. Today, after much thought and consultation with my US sister, I asked my son's teacher if I could bring a holiday project to school -- a spice ball -- oranges with cloves stuck in them with a ribbon around. I explained that I'd bring everything in (since I'm not allowed in the classroom) and that she could do the project whenever there was time. The teacher shook her head. There are only three weeks left before the vacation and she wouldn't have time. Fine. Unfortunately, the principal was eavesdropping nearby and started reiterating how there isn't time for things like that. Then a French mother tried to console me by saying that it wasn't me, it just isn't appropriate for the mothers to get involved with the school activities like I was suggesting -- especially not at my son's age (as opposed to my daughter's age -- she's still in maternelle/preschool and they are a bit more flexible for the 5 and under age group). I felt like telling the French mom that I've been here for four years and I know they don't encourage parental involvement but I like to be involved -- I just can't shake this American cultural tick! Then when she saw my expression after her little pep talk, but not understanding, the mother asked me "having a bad day?" Just having a French day, thank you very much.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
5:16 PM
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My Daughter
This morning the kids were late for school. I've been going to bed late while my husband isn't around and not sleeping well, so getting revved up in the morning is difficult. We were only 5 minutes late for school, but late is late. The doors were closed. My children had to face..... the secretary.... and believe me, no one, child or adult ever wants to face the secretary. I could tell story after story about what that woman has said to me over the years! So I see the kids waiting at her desk until she decides to acknowledge their late presence and give them a note to send them into their classrooms. I'll probably hear about it later from the secretary. She'll probably call me into her office while I'm picking up the kids to let me know that while we all lead busy lives every other parent got their child to school on time this morning! Needless to say, the kids are rarely late. Anyway, it is freezing today in Paris. I left the apartment in a wool sweater and my winter coat expecting to quickly pick up my daughter for lunch and bring her back to the warm apartment. Well, when I arrived at the school she asked where we were going. I told her "home." She said she'd like to go to the park (on warm days we often picnic in the park). I said "it's freezing, we can't go to the park." She says she doesn't want to walk all the way home because we might be late getting back to school after lunch. So I take pity on her and ask her if she'd like to go to MacDo for lunch which is less than two blocks away. She's very happy and we go there for lunch. After we eat I ask her if she'd like to go to the park or walk around the toy store (where we go when it's too cold to stay outside). She says "the toy store mommy. Didn't you feel how cold it is outside?" I think she's too smart for me. I couldn't help but think she planned this all out. She's only four now. What happens when she is a teenager?
-- said Auntie M in Paris
3:02 PM
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Wednesday, December 01, 2004
Little Victory
My son's golf school is run by a bunch of men who sometimes acknowledge me and occasionally say "bonjour." Other than that, there hasn't been a whole lot of contact over the last two and a half years. Last week, there was a problem in my son's class. I wasn't happy about what happened, but I didn't get angry either. I didn't think much about what they thought about my behavior, but I found out this week. The same three men that I dealt with last week each came up to me today, separately and at different times, looked me in the eye, shook my hand, and said "Bonjour Madame." Honestly, it felt great. I'm shallow enough to admit it.
-- said Auntie M in Paris
8:40 PM
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The American Panini
At the Jardin D'Acclimatation I often get a trois fromages/three cheese panini. It's delicious. I share the sandwich with my daughter (even though she's already had her picnic lunch) while my son is at golf. After I ordered the panini, I took a better look at the menu and noticed a new addition... an American panini. So I asked the cashier what is an "American" panini? He asked me why... since I had already ordered. I said, because I'm American and I was wondering what that means. Apparently, an American panini is ground beef and ketchup, "vous savez... comme un hamburger." I'd have to argue that among the many culinary wonders of ketchup, heating the stuff up doesn't sound appealing. Do we have to show the French how to make our food properly?
-- said Auntie M in Paris
7:24 PM
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